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vendredi 5 juillet 2013

Egyptian Traditional Clothing

Egyptian Traditional Clothing


Egypt had a range of traditional costumes. The farmers (fellahin) basically wear gallibayas. In the cities the upper classes adopted the clothes of their conquerors - Ottoman Turks from 1500s, and later European from 1798. To the south the Nubians have their own distinctive costume and across the desert the Bedouin also have a separate style of clothing.

Egyptian man, Cairo 1970. Egyptian woman, Cairo 1970. Fellahin. Sinai 1937.


Egypt - Women

Peasant women would wear a gallebaya outdoors but in the city gallibaya tended to be worn only indoors. For public wear a woman would wear a wide woman's dress called a tob sebleh.
Wide trousers were worn as underclothing (tshalvar or shintijan) gathered below knee and falling to ankles.
The woman's kaftan was called a yelek. This was lined, with the neck open to breast and buttoned or laced along side seams for shaping. It had high side slit over trousers. Girded with shawl. Women would wear a shirt under the yelek, and a djubbeh or binnish over it.
In Alexandria and Cairo, women would also wear the melaya luf - a large rectangular wrap worn for modesty, warmth, and used to carry things.
City women often worn a bur`a - a long rectangular face veil either of white cotton or open weave - and a headscarf (sometimes over a skullcap - taqiyah). Another headcovering was the mandil (headscarf) sometimes decorated with pom poms. Among the fellahin a bag like hattah was sometimes worn.

Almehs c1870 (Bonfils). Cairo (c1920). woman in milaya, Cairo 1920s.

Egypt - Men

The basic traditional Egyptian garment for men is a long shirt (gallibaya). Tilke also distinguishes one with a looser fit under the arms (eri) and very wide version of the gallibaya called a kamis which was worn by fellahin. While working fellahin would hitch up the skirt of the gallebaya and wrap it around their thighs.
Trousers (sserual) were sometimes worn under the gallebaya.
Over the gallebaya a kaftan (often striped) was worn. A kaftan is a full length garment like a coat with long wide sleeves open in front and often bound by a fabric belt (hizan). Over the kaftan was a binish - a cloth overcoat with wide sleeves - often slit below usually dark grey and unlined. Alternatively, a djubbeh which had was more complex cut than the binish could be worn especially by Turks during the Ottoman occupation. The `ulama also wore a jubbah over stripped kaftan. The jubbah was a long, wide sleeved gown which reached to feet and was buttoned half way down.
However, from the 1800s European dress replaced traditional dress among the Ottoman court and this was taken up by members of the elite. Therefore, senior civil servants and members of the ruling intelligentsia could be seen in Egypt in European style clothing.
However European headwear was not adopted. Instead Sultan Mahmud Khan II decreed that checheya heargear would be worn. In Egypt this was called "tarboosh". Later Mohammed Ali was to incorporate the tarboosh as part of the military uniform. This was abolished as headwear after the 1952 revolution. For further information on the layers worn see Male Headewear
What was not worn by Egyptians was the Arab kufeya and `igal - except possibly among some Bedouin.
Egypt, 1926. Cairo 1938. Skullcaps. Egypt.

Nubia

Nubia straddles the south of Egypt and the North of the Sudan. After the building of the Aswan dam many Nubians were relocated in Aswan. Nubians belong to five main tribes - two of which (Kanuz and Fadija) are in Egypt. The Kanuz people are the northernmost.
The Kanuz women wear dresses formed by horizontal lengths of fabric each of which is longer than the one above giving a dress with almost a flounce at the bottom. For special occasions - such as weddings a semi-transparent layer is added over the dress. Fadija women wear a wrapped garment a little like a sari.
Men wear trousers, shirts, vests and turbans.

Nubian man 1967. Nubians 1966. Sudan 2004.

Why Tunisia? Ten raisons to visit Tunisia

Why Tunisia?





Ten raisons to visit Tunisia: 

Whether you are a history buff who loves visiting archaeological and historic places or a classic vacationer who is in for some adventure on a foreign place, Tunisia is the place for you. From the beautiful beaches to the momentous landmarks, you will surely find that Tunisia is yet another great place in Northern Africa to visit. Here are some places that you have to visit.
  1. Tunisia' Coastal Farmlands: The known Atlas Mountains divide Tunisia into two - the crop-yielding and the barren region. You will find the coastal farmlands of Tunisia to be surprisingly heterogeneous, meaning you won't see the same site twice. If you think farmlands are boring, wait until you visit Tunisia's farmlands.
  2. Saharan Oases: Tunisia covers a part of the Sahara, the largest in the world. Because only the edge of Sahara is covered by Tunisia, Saharan Oases are abundant in the place. Get a glimpse of the Saharan life by going to Tunisia's Saharan Oases.
  3. Beaches in Tunisia: The best beaches in Tunisia are found in Jarbah and Hammament. Because of Tunisia's coastal position, many beaches can be found in the place. The kind of experience you will have in Tunisia's beaches is bound to be one of a kind because of the hot weather condition.
  4. Ancient City of Carthage: Tunisia was founded by Carthagians - Phoenician traders who eventually settled into the land and built their own city there. Until now, the vestiges of the Ancient City of Carthage still stand strong. If you are into history, you will surely love the sight of it.
  5. Roman ruins at Northeastern Tunisia: Once upon a time, Tunisia was under the rule of the Roman Empire. A visit to Dongya and El Djem will have you enraptured as you see the splendor of Roman architecture. Make sure that you visit the Amphitheater, which was built as early as the 3rd A.D.
  6. Fortified Granaries in Tunisia: To protect their crops from invading nomads from nearby lands, the early people of Tunisia built granaries of impressive architectural design and structure. Until now, these granaries still stand strong and, in fact, have been visited by tourists all around the world. You will surely be impressed with the splendor of Tunisian architecture.
  7. Tunis Panorama: After having treated yourself to a multitude of history trips, you ought to visit the capital of Tunisia, Tunis. Tunis Panorama is very well unlike other capital cities as you will feel as if you are in two places at once. Tunis is divided into two areas - the Muslim quarter associated with narrow and meandering streets and the European quarter with the capacious streets built during the occupation of French in Tunis.
  8. Mosque of Sidi Sahib: If you are interested in matters of religion, you would love Tunisia's mosque of Sidi Sahib. It is the resting place of Sidi Sahib, a known associate of the founder of Islam faith, Muhammad. Religion buffs as well as pilgrims all over the place flock to this special place of Islam.
  9. Rediscovery of Faith: Most people who have been to Tunisia claim that they have gained a renewed sense of faith. Because the majority of the Tunisian people are Muslims, you will certainly find your faith in the front line. Tunisia is the place to go if you want to have peace and quiet as well as answers to your questions of religion.
  10. Tunisian Market: Though the products of Tunisia are not as popular as other African products, you are bound to purchase a lot of cheap items in Tunisia, most especially in Tunis. Tunis is a commercial port. Its strategic location has allowed a variety of goods to be sold at a thrifty price.

dimanche 30 juin 2013

tunisian festivals

El Jem International Symphonic Festival
eljam_festival

Performances of some of the finest classical works, set in the candle-lit surroundings of the best-preserved Roman coliseum in the world. Whether you're a music buff or simply curious, you cannot afford to miss this highly romantic setting. Year after year, the festival has attracted big names from the musical world, clearly as eager to play in such amazing surroundings as spectators are to enjoy them

ksour

If the scenery around these parts looks familiar to you, you'd be right. George Lucas' Star Wars were not filmed a long time ago in a galaxy far far away, but in the Seventies, and in the strange lunar landscape of the Tunisian desert.The ghortas (grain stones) created by weathering resemble huge mushrooms, and the inhabitants carve their dwellings out of the sandy rock.

carthage_festival
Although this event is intended as Tunisia's premier international arts festival, its most interesting components include examples of fusion between local, more traditional forms of music and dance and more mainstream, international styles. Particular examples include forms of Tunisian music mixed with jazz. Traditionalists, however, can enjoy productions of many works, including international theatre and ballet performances in the well-preserved Roman amphitheatre

douz_festival
The main theme of this demonstration is the cultural heritage of the “Mrazig”, which was at the origin of the nomads practitioner transhumance in the vast Sahara. 

carthage_film_festival
The Carthage Film Festival is a biannual October film festival hosted by the government of Tunisia.The festival was created in 1966 by the Tunisian Minister of Culture to showcase films from the Maghreb,  Africa, and the Middle East. In order to be eligible for competition, a film must have a director of African or Middle Eastern nationality, and have been produced at least two years before entry.  
jazz
Tabarka Jazz Festival is an annual festival of music taking place in August and July, since 1970, in the coastal town of Tabarka (Tunisia).The town of Tabarka comes to life to the sounds of jazz from around the world.Local and national musicians perform to provide some real fusion flavour, and jazz enthusiasts can take part in seminars and workshops. With the July climate guaranteeing perfect weather, you can enjoy music in the midst of your summer holiday.

tunisian crafts 4

Various Trades







Basket making containing sheets of palm trees constitutes an important aspect of the craft industry of the South; baskets, ranges and hats are the principal products. The wicker is used in the manufacture of basket.
The pieces of furniture in basket making (cane-bottoming) are a recent production which gains the favors of increasingly modern customers.

painted_glassPAINTING ANNEALED GLASS

Tunisian painting under glass is characterized by its drawn topics hagiographic and heroic the Moslem epopee. The floral and animalist reasons also are very snuffed. Currently it evolves to the utility product (Mirror) in gilded managing staffs which emphasize the expansion of the colors of the very excavated drawings and the light of the mirrors.

CAGE OF SIDI BOU SAÏDbird_cage

Very elegant and very decorative, the cage of Sidi Bou Said is inspired in its decoration by the arabesques by the window by wrought iron (Zlabiya) which decorates frontings of the residences of Médina.




Wood



tunisiancrafts 
olive_woodIn producing spite of the scarcity of the forests of wood, the work of wood is strongly enraciné in the craft industry; the Tunisian inheritance conceals famous masterpieces carried out in various gasolines of this material illustrating various techniques.
The scarcity of wood allowed the development of major arts related to this noble material: sculpture, openwork and painting.
  Should it be recalled that the “minbar” of the Large mosque of Kairouan dated from the lXème century is a single piece of furniture by the beauty of its panels (nearly 110) carved and assembled. It is not only most beautiful “minbar” known but also oldest of the Moslem world arabo. wood_craftThe Tunisian craftsman did not only excel in the sculpture of wood. Other techniques, such as turning and painting are familiar for him.
Painting on wood with its geometrical or floral varieties is implemented with art to the ceilings of the mosques and the large residences; she traverses the racks carry-arm, intended to carry weapons lying: she also decorates with splendid trunks devoted by the tradition to contain and take along the trousseau of the bride.
But the Tunisian craftsman also expressed his gift by combining some times the sculpture and painting on wood. This is checked for example in several “Hanût Hajjem” which is a kind of front of bed out of painted gilded and carved wooden.
Wood craftNowadays, the development of manners and the contact with other civilizations, made fall several branches from this craft industry in disuse. Thus, “Hanût Hajjem”, and the trunks are supplanted by modern pieces of furniture manufactured in series or by senior cabinetmakers who married the spirit of times. The old pieces of furniture become rare, nonfunctional and only decorative parts for the modern interiors.
  But the techniques remain and evolve/move: the openwork, turning and painting found supports other than the pieces of furniture (racks, consoles, managing staffs, folding screens small curios), where the craftsman continues to excel in thousand-year-old kinds.
 



tunisian crafts 3

Jewels And Silverware




jewelery04The history of the Tunisian jewelry goes back to the paddle of the punic era from which it borrows several signs symbols and forms which are found today still in the current jewels.jewelery01
This secular craft industry was enriched by various contributions Roman, Byzantine, Arabic, Turkish and Andalusian who modelled in various materials the ornament of the woman of their time.
Today, the distinction a long time maintained between the rural money jewel and the town gold jewel definitively grew blurred. The variety of materials used, the multiplication of the production centres and the development of the tastes stripped the jewelry of its value symbolic system to keep only its commercial value of it. Admittedly regional idiosyncracies persist and point out the origins of various ornaments but they are not any more the exclusiveness in the craftsmen of such or such area: ornaments of marriage, they evolved/moved with this institution of which the ceremonial désacralise more and more.Rihana large chain of flat gold rings, Skhab, chains of gold, money and amber.jewelery02jewelery03Khomsas, Kholkhals rings of ankles, the additional fibules of support of Melia, Khellas attest the variety and the wealth of these characteristics but yield gradually to the generation of very snuffed jewels: bracelets out of gold, rings in the form of rhombus encrusted with semi-precious stones or enamels, collars modernized and loops with the European one.
  Currently designers and artists invest the field of the craft industry and innovate by proposing jewels of very modern invoice.
Contrary to the jewelry which evolves/moves and loses its value symbolic system, Tunisian silverware, if it also loses its functions, perpetuates the same purposes and guard the same passion at the customers: ustensils of luxury, curios and accessories various furnish and decorate the modern interiors. The standard collection consists of a censer (Mabkhara) one to aspergeir (mrech) stylized poudriers, combs, shoes, boxes (Kanawita) and mirrors of toilet. The techniques of pushed back and the filigree compete of beauty and propose different menus purposes with the admiration of the collectors.
This range is extended more and more to pieces of furniture, consoles, mirrors and armchairs or the art of the cabinetmaker is requested.

Puffed Up Glass




Puffed glassGlass is a very old practice deeply anchored in the cultural history of our country. The Punic ones inherited this practice their ancestors Phéniciens, to adapt it and develop it in Carthage and Kerkouane.
After the decline of the Roman Empire, the Tunisian glass-makers continued to produce glass with the traditional way of blowing to the free air or in a mould.
The Moslem Middle Ages see to settle in Tunisia a craft industry glass-maker which makes specific great strides following the example other countries of the Islamic East: Delicacy of the moulded and cut ornaments and especially wealth of the gilded and enamelled decorations works.
The dynasties of Aghlabides, Fatimides and Zirides which sought to compete with the ostentation of the court of Baghdad, developed, as of the IX ème century a craft industry glass-maker which remains active until half of the XIV ème century which saw the elimination of blowing to the mouth with the profit of the industrial production.
After an eclipse of a few centuries, glass returns to Tunisia by the effort of the National office of the craft industry which reintroduced the techniques traditionneles. The creative craftsmen took the changing and express themselves from now on in several registers which combine ancestral traditions and modern practices.
 

tunisian crafts 2

Leather And Leather Working




Leather craftThe formerly flourishing trades of leather, include the art of saddlery and the embroidery on leather, the manufacture of the traditional shoe (balgha) and various other utility purposes in leather working.
The saddlery of pageantry trônait at the top of the trades of leather. The saddle with its varieties of embroidery, constituted the chief of work of the craft industry of leather.
handicraftsForming until the beginning of our century one of the most important corporations of the souks of the médina, the saddlers animated in Tunis the gravers of the souk sarrajines.
The other principal corporation of the craftsmen of leather was that of the “balgagias” which, grouped in the souks of the same name made the male and female Turkish slippers. The “balgha” knew its period ostentation when it was the single shoe, of interior and exit, used by the men and the women of all the social classes as well by the townsmen as the rural ones. In addition to the balgha, the craftsmen manufactured other kinds of Turkish slippers such as Besmaq, Rihya and Kontra.
 The Turkish slippers of men are generally of the natural color of leather. Those of the women in their majority are embroidered with money and gold, cotton, silk wire with floral reasons or crescents.
The development of the lifestyles and transport, gradually, brought the craftsmen of leather to a happy reconversion.
Currently, in the gravers of the souks, the craftsmen devote themselves more and more to the manufacture of products of leather working; satchels, portfolios of schoolboys, leather basket, belts, carries sheets, trimmings of offices, boxes, cushions, poufs and purposes decorative. These purposes are often stamped by geometrical reasons.
The souk of the “Balghajiya” is today the last and the single souk which still keeps its specialization in spite of the generalization of the modern shoe. The rehabilitation of the port of the traditional dress is at the origin of the promptness of the souk. The balgha being an essential accessory for the traditional costume.


Iron Made Handicrafts

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wrought_iron

WROUGHT IRON

The Tunisian wrought iron is especially inspired by the manufacture of Moroccan and Spanish wrought iron (Andalusians). The various reasons which decorate grids, doors, windows, transoms of Souks, and brackets, are of Arab, Spanish and Portuguese inspiration. 
The reasons for filling are composed of irons in forms of C and S.
Generally, the grids of the windows and the doors are composed of a round iron framework of 8 to 10 mm diameter, and round iron decorative reasons of 5 mm, fixed at the framework and connected to each other by round or flat iron hoops from 3 to 4 mm thickness. More rarely the squares and the flats were employed in these compositions, and only in ironwork inspired by the contributions Spanish and Portuguese or in those of modern times.
Other elements referring to the building, the such stops, the entries of locks, the strap hinges, and the “Khomsas” (specifically Arab elements which represent a hand and which according to the legends protect from the evil eye).
The wrought iron or cut out, bronze and copper engraved, engraved or cut out are frequently employed for the execution of these accessories of doors. Nowadays wrought iron at conquered other horizons that of the world of the building, it with crossed the universe of decoration as an approval for other craft industries such blown glass, where he becomes an integral part in manufacture of luminaries (glosses, lamps and brackets), of candlesticks and other decorative purposes.

COPPER 

copper

handicrafts05

It is at the XVIIIème century that the craft industry of copper knew its golden age in Tunisia, in particular in the big cities (Tunis, Sfax, Kairouan). The purposes out of copper are an important component of the trousseau of married in the town families until the XX century half.
Today, chiselling spreads and embellishes incrustations of money wire,
Red copper cauldrons and pots apparent keeping the traces of the hammering, and which one uses as mask pots. Following the example ceramics, vases with the most varied forms such braziers, the candy boxes, the vases with flowers, are covered with a vitreous enamel to the hot colors like the green, the mauve and the honey, which lets show through a schematized floral decoration.

tunisian crafts 1

Carpet




handicraftsKairouan is the first center of manufacture while employing more than 23.000 people (especially young women) on a working total of 28.000 in the sector of the craft industry.
The tradition allots to a girl of an Othoman governor of Kairouan the introduction in Tunisia, in 1830, carpet at tied points of Anatolian inspiration. However, the oldest traces of carpet go up in Ve front century J. - C. with the famous Carthaginian tapestries tinted with the murex.
In VIIIe century, the emir aghlabide paid the tribute with the caliph de Bagdad out of carpet. The uses of the carpet are multiple, whether it is in the mediums townsman, countryman or nomad: saddle, groundsheet, prayer, carpet of decoration, etc
One distinguishes today several types of typical carpets of the Tunisian craft industry:
The carpet strictly speaking is also specified carpet of Kairouan because its manufacture started at the XIXe century in this city of the center of Tunisia. Even if the manufacture of carpet relates to other cities such as Ksibet el-Médiouni, Gabès or Bizerte, Kairouan remains the principal center of manufacture. Contrary to the mergoum and the kilim, it is about a carpet of tied points not woven. It is manufactured containing wool or of cotton (in particular for the screen and the chain) and more rarely of flax. It can be coloured in the natural colors of the white to chestnut while passing by the beige gray when it is of alloucha type (standard original). The wool is always thick, because it is that of the sheep, but one can use the hair of the dromedary or the goat. Its dimensions are variable, in a rectangular composition, of 70 by 140 cm up to 300 by 400 cm. Its texture, defined by the number of points tied per m ², spreads out between 12.000 and 490.000 but the standard is of 40.000, i.e. 20 lines by 20 lines. The composition of the carpet is made of a broad rectangular central field framed by edges made up of parallel bands. The field has broad corner pieces which delimit a hexagonal field. The reasons are geometrical but can also be stylized flowers, giving to the unit a symmetrical aspect with prevalence of the form of the rhombus. During the XXe century, the alloucha type evolves to more complexity and by polychromy, texture increases and the Persian influences are felt with the appearance of the recognizable zarbia to its color brown-red.carpet
  • The mergoum: it is a short-pile carpet of wool often made up on a red content with Berber reasons (regma). Its place of production of origin is the town of Oudhref close to Gabès which gives him sometimes its name.
  • The kilim which translates a strong Turkish influence left by the period of domination Ottoman.
  • Tapestries: one finds them with a large variety of colors in certain cities of the Tunisian South such as Gafsa and Tataouine.




    Ceramics And Pottery




    potery__ceramic02The art of the pottery and ceramics is thousand-year-old in Tunisia which knows two types of pottery: a pottery turned by the men and another modelled by the women: the latter meets only in rural environment; it is primarily utility. Modelling, the cooking and the decoration of these potteries are remained primitive. The lines, the points, the ciliés features, the teeth of saw, the crosses, the rhombuses are as many reasons which point out tattooings and rural fabrics of wool.
    potery__ceramicWhen with the turned pottery, it seems that they are the potters of Jerba which were the first to use the turn since the most moved back times. They hold their improvement of this art of old Egypt, Phénicie, Greece and Rome. In fact also the potters of Guellala (Jerba) are at the origin of the creation of other centers potters in the Tunisian littoral. Tunis, Nabeul, Moknine them must have given birth to there an of the same production invoices than that of Jerba.
    But if the porous pottery “chaouat” is identified in Guellala, that enamelled, yellow, green or brown, is synonymous with Nabeul. The potters of this city owe their fame with this technique.
    The use of the glazes and metallic oxides came from Baghdad at the time aghlabide (IX ème century).
    potery__ceramic01Ceramics Fatimide and Zirîde (IX ème century is characterized by a representational art devoting the representation of human figures and animals. This art was spread in the of the same Maghreb countries Q' in Andalusia and Sicily.
     From the XVII ème century Tunisian ceramics is subject to strongly the Turkish influence: the ceramists tunisois, installed with Qallaline, produce a polychrome ceramics pointing out that of Turkey Ottmane.  
     Nowadays, ceramics knows a true rebirth. The development of the sector of the building gave him a new strength by allowing the emergence of a great number of artisanal manufacturing units as well as industrial. But ceramics is not limited to the utility functions since it has an increasingly important place in the play activities of the Tunisian plastics technicians who regard it more as art with whole share than like simple technique.